The Samba Circles of São Paulo: A Growing Movement Rooted in Tradition and Diversity

With feminist-focused gatherings and spaces welcoming the LGBTQIA+ community, samba has become a nightlife musical trend in São Paulo. However, it remains deeply rooted in the traditions of local communities, African-based religions, and the leadership of Black women in the city. Explore a map featuring more than 50 samba circles spread across the capital.

This story was originally published at portal g1

Circles of 'Sampa'

The streets of São Paulo have been overtaken by samba circles. A quick tour around the city center at night - especially in historic neighborhoods like Barra Funda and Bixiga - reveals crowded bars brimming with young people looking for fun.

From samba gatherings aimed at the LGBTQIA+ community, like Sambixas, to traditional events such as Samba da Vela, samba can now be found throughout São Paulo. 

There are also circles that merge its tradition with a new and diverse audience, such as Madeira de Lei and Samba da Treze, which draw huge crowds to Bixiga. 

At the end of this article, you’ll find a map highlighting over 50 samba circles spread across all regions of the city.

“There’s art in Brazil that stays in the blind spot for a long time, and then, all of a sudden, it comes back into view. That’s what’s happening with samba,” explains Maíra da Rosa, vocalist of Samba de Dandara. The female group founded 12 years ago represents the diversity of São Paulo’s samba circles.

“The money is flowing a little more towards us now—more than we’re used to, but less than we’d like,” Maíra jokes.

The Cradle of Samba in Barra Funda

In venues such as Boteco Dona Tati and Anexo Godê in Barra Funda, middle-class youth have been gathering around samba performers to hear classics such as Vou Festejar and anthems of São Paulo samba, like Tradição (Vai no Bixiga pra ver) by Geraldo Filme.

However, the city's samba tradition is not restricted to Bixiga neighborhood. Next to the Pacaembu viaduct, only ten minutes away from these bars, a plaque honors Largo da Banana — which is also known as the Cradle of Samba in São Paulo.

In the early 20th century, the city’s poorest residents held samba circles after long days unloading goods such as rice, beans, and bananas.  It is no coincidence that the Barra Funda area, home to Largo da Banana, gave rise to São Paulo’s first carnival chord, which later evolved into the Camisa Verde e Branco samba school. Today, the Velha Guarda Camisa Verde e Branco group organizes several samba circles throughout the city, with a strong presence in Barra Funda.

These historical events underscore the cyclical nature of samba traditions in the city, highlighted by the women of Samba de Dandara. Their perspective on the genre resonates with the rising visibility of Black culture, particularly among younger generations.

“People are reconnecting with their traditions, and even those with lighter skin are beginning to understand that they live in a Black cultural space,” they emphasize.

The Aunts and Godmothers of Samba

Another crucial chapter in the history of samba in São Paulo is rooted in the Liberdade neighborhood. Known in recent decades for its large Japanese immigrant population, Liberdade was also a key stage for Black resistance events.

This was the home of Lavapés, São Paulo’s first samba school, founded by sambista Deolinda Madre, also known as Madrinha Eunice.

✅  Titles like “godmother” (madrinha) or “aunt” (tia) are often bestowed upon respected women in samba communities. The term “aunt” is also used for leaders in Afro-Brazilian religious spaces, as with Tia Surica of Portela in Rio de Janeiro.

Inspired by Rio’s carnival, Madrinha Eunice brought the tradition of samba schools to São Paulo. Before that, she was a regular guest at festivals in Pirapora do Bom Jesus, a city considered a hub for São Paulo’s samba.

Madrinha Eunice baptized over 40 children and became a prominent Black leader in Liberdade and Glicério areas.

In 2022, she was honored with a statue celebrating her pioneering role as a woman of color in the history of samba. Also in Liberdade, Dona Augusta Geralda, the mother of composer Geraldo Filme, founded the domestic workers’ union, which later gave rise to the Paulistano da Glória samba school.

Beyond their roles as composers, musicians, and emcees, women are also central to samba as organizers and entrepreneurs—sometimes without the titles of "aunts" or "godmothers." One example is Margareth Valentim, who co-founded Quintal dos Prettos with Magnu Sousá and Maurílio de Oliveira.

The event began as an independent pagode in São Paulo’s East Zone and now attracts over 2,000 attendees per edition

✅ The term pagode is used in its traditional sense, referring to a samba gathering rather than a musical style.

Quintal dos Prettos event also hosts a market for Black entrepreneurs and has welcomed notable guests, such as singer Maria Rita. Despite its scale, “everything is done with grit,” says Margareth, the executive director.

“We have to create an entire structure for the event to happen—without sponsorship or anything… It’s a classic samba setup,” she explains.

“Women drive this movement. Time passes, and the matriarchs remain,” reflects sambista Magnu Sousá of Quintal dos Prettos.

Where to Hear 'Samba Raiz'

In Santo Amaro neighborhood at São Paulo’s South Zone, samba tradition is upheld by Chapinha da Vela. He is one of the founders of the Comunidade Samba da Vela, where veteran samba composers gather with younger generations to showcase their songs.

Held every Monday, the samba session lasts until a candle placed at the center of the circle burns out, as the name Samba da Vela suggests.

According to Chapinha, the timeline was occasionally extended during visits from the godmother Beth Carvalho, who would often ask to hear "just a little more".

✅ Comunidade Samba da Vela was founded by Chapinha in the early 2000s, alongside brothers Magnu and Maurílio and composer José Alfredo Gonçalves Miranda, known as Paquera, who passed away in 2014.

The community focuses on more traditional samba styles, such as samba-choro—like Adoniran Barbosa’s Saudosa Maloca—as well as sambas dolentes and melodies of partido-alto. Chapinha leads the sessions as the master of ceremonies.

“Samba has its roots. I have nothing against modern styles, but you need to understand what’s traditional,” he says. “Without roots, no tree can stand tall.”

Samba Circles Are Also a Responsibility

The foundation of samba circles is about more than just the music. Even in newer pagodes, it’s not uncommon for a sambista to pause the celebration to share a message — or even call out the audience. Magnu and Maurílio refer to this moment as the “hora do presta atenção” (pay attention moment).

For instance, pushing for a spot at the edge of the circle without knowing the lyrics or clapping in time with the samba is frowned upon.

According to Mateus Professor and Rogério Família, who lead Poeira Pura, “The first part of the samba circle is sacred.”

“This isn’t about being exclusive; it’s about ensuring the energy of the circle flows well,” explains Mateus. “The edge of the samba circle isn’t a privilege; it’s a responsibility.”

Since 2022, the Rio-based group has been performing in São Paulo’s North Zone on the first weekend of each month, further proof of samba’s growing popularity in the city. Their audience, primarily aged 20 to 30 and with a predominantly Black presence described as "overwhelming," often sells out tickets within minutes.

“Samba doesn’t fit into that clientelist culture of ‘I pay, so I get to do whatever I want,’” argues Mateus.

Drawing directly from the culture of Afro-Brazilian religious terreiros, respect for the edge of the samba circle is seen as a shared responsibility of both performers and participants.

The reasons behind sambistas’ occasional critiques vary depending on the circle.

These rules don’t always sit well with younger, more progressive attendees, but they are often rooted in principles tied to African-based religions.

“It’s a family gathering, you understand? In our terreiro, can you smoke weed? No!” says Magnu of Quintal dos Prettos, whose events at Espaço Maria Zélia often include children and elders. “You wouldn’t light up in a candomblé or umbanda terreiro, would you?” he explains.

“When we issue these reminders, it’s for people who haven’t yet understood that this is both entertainment and something profoundly serious that we carry throughout life: our ancestry.”

Where to Find Samba Circles in São Paulo

G1 has mapped over 50 samba circles across São Paulo, covering all regions of the city. In this guide, you’ll find:

• Traditional communities: Samba circles deeply rooted in São Paulo’s history and culture.

• Downtown circles: Popular spots in central neighborhoods like Bixiga and Barra Funda.

• Peripheral circles: Samba gatherings in the city’s outer regions, showcasing local creativity and diversity.

• All-women circles: Spaces led and performed exclusively by women, celebrating their leadership in samba.

  
  

LGBTQIA+ circles: Inclusive gatherings that embrace diversity and create safe spaces for all.